🇬🇷 Goodbye 2023

Dear reader,

Since this newsletter is the last one for 2023, we looked at the past year and picked ten significant events that marked the year in Greece. We did that mainly because 2023 has been a very tough year for the country, and we take a look back to remember so 2024 can be more fruitful.

So, here we go. 

1. The Tempi train collision: The worst accident in the country's transportation for decades

 On 28 February 2023, at 23:22, passenger train Intercity 62, carrying more than 350 passengers on the route Athens to Thessaloniki, clashed with commercial train 63503 en route from Thessaloniki to Larissa.  The result was fifty-seven people killed and at least 85 injured. It is the deadliest train accident that has ever happened in Greece. The authorities attempted to blame the stationmaster who put the train on the wrong rails. Yet, the tele-administration system meant to prevent human error and tragedies had not been operating for years - something unthinkable in the developed world.

The judicial investigation is ongoing. 

2. Wildfires destroy Rhodes Island and Parnitha mountain   

On 18 July, a wildfire erupted on the island of Rhodes and came under control only on 27 July. Some 15% of the island burned down - some 80,937 hectares. Greece’s Civil Protection however tweeted (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre): “The affected areas represent less than 10% of the total tourist capacity of Rhodes.”

Some 19,000 people, locals, and tourists were evacuated (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre). International media published hundreds of reports and pictures of tourists on the back of farmers’ tracks and others walking some kilometers to escape the fire. Some of them had to sleep on sports grounds and on the streets (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre), and locals hosted the luckier ones. 

A drone's view of the devastation caused by wildfires on the Greek island of Rhodes was published (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) by Reuters.

On 24 August, Parnitha Mountain, one of the last remaining green lungs, surrendered to a wildfire. According (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) to the National Observatory of Athens, some 6,433 hectares of the mountain were burned, 47% in the protected National Park area.

Three wildfires mainly destroyed Parnitha in 2007, 2021, and this year. Some of its parts burned this year had also been burned in 2007, making forest recovery even more difficult. You can see a map here (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) showing the areas burned in Parnitha in the three wildfires. 

3 The largest wildfire ever in Europe erupted in Alexandroupolis

On 20 August, a large wildfire erupted in Alexandroupoli, Northern Greece, which became the largest in the EU according to the Copernicus system. Only 17 days later, it was under control after it burned some 72,344 hectares (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre), with Alexandroupolis-Dadia Forest National Park being hardest hit. 

Eighteen people died as a result of this fire, mainly refugees who allegedly had chosen the route through the forest to escape arrest by Greek border authorities.  

The Dadia Forest National Park is one of the most important protected areas (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) at the national, European, and international levels. Among others, it hosts three of the four vulture species of Europe (the Black Vulture, the Griffon Vulture, and the Egyptian Vulture), while it is home to the only breeding population of Black Vultures in the Balkans.

Five thousand five hundred forty hectares of Dadia were also burned in 2022. According to reports (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre), the Park still needed a forester, and there were only four forest rangers with an average age of 60. At the same time, according to the same report, some 80 loggers who worked last year to cut down the burned trees still needed to be paid. 

2023 was the second worst year for wildfires in the last two decades (2007 is still on top of the list, with more than 270,000 hectares burned).

4. Storm Daniel leaves Greece’s breadbasket and thousands of lives in rubble

September began with Storm Daniel, which devastated Greece’s breadbasket - the Thessaly Plain. More than a week of disastrous flooding claimed the lives of 17 people and innumerable livestock and wrecked thousands of livelihoods - houses, cultivating land, and businesses. 

Storm ‘Daniel’ turned the Thessalian Plain into an enormous lake. Some 75,000 hectares of land came underwater, according to the National Observatory of Athens (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre), including several villages. 

The storm occurred (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) the day the wildfires in Evros-Dadia were finally put out (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre), mostly because of the weather conditions. People were trapped due to the height of the water, there was incalculable damage to crops and livestock, homes were swept away, and roads and bridges were destroyed.

Indicatively, scenes from Palamas town (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) (some 6,000 inhabitants) in Karditsa were post-apocalyptic as the water had almost completely covered the houses.

As there is no trust in the Greek state, flooded village residents have been calling TV channels and radio stations to plead for help.

Several months after the catastrophe, people have yet to find their pace. 

5. Pylos shipwreck - The disaster that exposed Europe’s heart of darkness

On 14 June 2023, in the morning, an Italy-bound rusty, aging, overloaded fishing trawler smuggling migrants sank in international waters at the Greek Ionian Sea, off the coast of Pylos, Messenia, Greece. Reports suggested (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) that the boat sank about 80km from the Greek southern coastal town of Pylos. Over 500 people were presumed dead (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) by 18 June. Officially, there are 82 dead, 400 missing, and 104 rescued. 

The fishing boat “Andriana” appears to have sailed empty from Egypt and stopped at the Libyan port of Tobruk, where it picked up migrants destined for Italy. Based on interviews with survivors, the International Organization for Migration estimated that the vessel was carrying 700 to 750 people, including at least 40 children. Save the Children put that number higher, at about 100 children.

Investigative journalism outlet Solomon reported (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) that the Greek Coast Guard had been aware of the vessel since Tuesday, 13/6, and was, according to its log (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre), in contact with the boat from as early as 14:00 local time. However, no rescue action was undertaken because “the trawler did not request any assistance from the Coast Guard or Greece,” according to the Greek Coast Guard.

After receiving a plea for aid, Hellenic Coast Guard officers approached the ship. They stated (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) they "saw the boat take a right turn, then a sharp left, and another right so big that it caused the vessel to capsize." Later, they said (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre)they used one rope to assess the situation, but two hours before the ship capsized. A bit later, the Adriana sank. Survivors of the shipwreck have stated (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre)that a Greek Coastguard vessel caused the fishing boat to capsize by attempting to tow it.

The European Ombudsman is investigating (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) accusations that the EU border protection agency, Frontex, and the Greek Coastguard did not take preventative steps to avoid the shipwreck.

6. Neo-nazi Croatian hooligans murder Greek citizen - Policeman killed by hooligan 

On 7 August 2023, twenty-nine-year-old AEK supporter Michalis Katsouris was stabbed to death (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) by neonazi Croatian hooligans of Dinamo Zagreb FC in a violent brawl in North-West Athens. Eight people were hospitalized due to injuries (four Greeks and four Croatians) in the context of the same attack, among them a 17-year-old boy with serious head injuries.

An eyewitness told (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) state ERT TV that the Croatian neonazis started to attack people blindly, whether soccer fans or ordinary citizens. The man reported young people stabbed in the hands or abdomen and a 13-year-old girl injured.

Multiple authorities have repeatedly warned the Greek police that some 150 neonazi Dinamo Zagreb hooligans were heading to Greece with nothing but bad intentions. These included the Croatian police that had handed (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) to their Greek counterparts via Europol and Interpol all information “concerning security as to fans that could transit to Greece,” Montenegro border authorities who informed (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) in writing the Greek Police that the neonazi Bad Blue Brothers of Dinamo Zagreb were in transit to Athens and even PAE-AEK who had informed (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) the Greek Police that dangerous hooligans were about to arrive.

The Greek authorities took no deterrence action.

In another incident, on 28 December, the 31-year-old Greek police officer Giorgos Lyggeridis, who had been shot with a naval flare during clashes with hooligans outside a volleyball arena 20 days before, died (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre). He earlier had his leg amputated to save his life. 

7. An unthinkable crime

A shocking video (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) surfaced on social media on 6 September showing events of 5 September: a man running to catch the ship. The man managed to walk on the catapult while the boat was leaving - the catapult was still down, touching the port. Two crew members on the catapult pushed the man violently out of the ship while another was watching. As a result, the man fell into the sea the moment the boat was leaving. The crew members turned their backs, and the ship (Blue Horizon) sailed for Crete as if nothing had happened, like they had dropped a bag of garbage in the sea or something. The man drowned (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) quickly. 

The ferry traveled as usual for some 45 minutes. It only turned around when horrified passengers alerted the Greek Coast Guard, and a prosecutor ordered Blue Horizon to return to Piraeus. Passengers would later tell the media that they alerted the ferry crew after they saw the man in the water, but nothing happened.

After returning to Piraeus, the captain, the deck officer, and two more crew members were arrested and then charged with manslaughter (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) and for violating several articles of public maritime law.

The victim was 36-year-old Antonis Karyotis (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre). He was from a working-class family with ten members living in social housing blocks. He had recently lost his mother. Karyotis was mentally disabled. According to locals, he was a kind-hearted person who always smiled. 

The company withdrew the ship from the Cretan route. 

Antonis Karyotis' funeral was held (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) in Aghios Nikolaos. He ‘returned’ to his birthplace by ship, only in a coffin.  

Four members of the crew were charged with manslaughter (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre). Τwo of them were left to walk free (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) under conditions ten days after the incident. The other two were jailed (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) while the investigation is ongoing. 

On 2 October, it was reported (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) that the harbourmaster who was investigated for his implication in Karyotis’s killing got promoted.  

8. ND won the national elections - Main opposition party SYRIZA collapses 

ND won the national elections of 21 May and 25 June with 41%, while SYRIZA came second with a big gap - taking 20.07% of the vote.   

On 29 June, Alexis Tsipras, SYRIZA leader of 15 years, resigned from the party’s leadership.

Greek-American businessman Stefanos Kasselakis was the surprise entry in the rally for the new SYRIZA leadership, competing against MPs Nikos Pappas, Efi Achtsioglou, and Stefanos Tzoumakas. Thanks to the “direct election” of the leader from the party’s base (a system Tsipras established, substituting election from the Central Committee), Kasselakis, who was little known before in Greece and was not related to the party apart from his symbolic participation in a non-electable position in the last national elections-  was on 24 September elected as new SYRIZA head with 55.9% of the vote. Achtsioglou comes second with 44%.

9. A new party emerges, breaking away from SYRIZA

On 4 December, after a long period of strife within the party, Achtsioglou, with a group of 11 SYRIZA MPs, broke away from SYRIZA and announced a new party and parliamentary group called Nea Aristera. Alexis Haritsis heads the parliamentary group. 

10. A most surprising election result

5 October: The most surprising election result we can remember - PASOK/KINAL candidate for the municipality of Athens Harris Doukas beats all predictions and gets elected as Mayor of Athens with 55,96%, leaving ND supported, incumbent mayor Bakoyannis second with 44,04% in the second round. The result was surprising because Bakoyannis came first with 41,35% in the first round and Doukas second with 14,20%.

Bakoyannis, PM’s nephew, would be remembered mainly for the failed costly ‘renovation’ of Panepistimiou street -one of the four major arteries in downtown Athens- the so-called ‘Great Walk.’

Just weeks after the ND ex-mayor left the City Hall, the ND government tabled an amendment removing much decision-making power from the mayor of Athens. The amendment transfers the management of the company Anaplasis Athinas -which handles a large part of the city’s gentrification projects- from the Mayor of Athens to several ministers. 

On 29 December, Bakoyannis left the City Hall while tormented by (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre)the crowd's jeers. 

Read

Poet Maria Laina dies on 27 December aged 76. Here is an older article on her work (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre)

Schaeuble dead at 81: Majority of Greeks don’t shed a tear… (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre)

The oldest cinema in Greece, 102 year-old Ideal, closed down on 29 December to be turned into a fancy hotel (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre) - That’s how Athens ‘honours’ its landmarks  

POLITICO grands “Lives of Others” spying award to Greek PM (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre)

Leftism Dies in the Heart of Greece (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre)

Greece would offer major treasures to UK for Parthenon marbles, minister says (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre)

Declassified letters reveal sculptures proposal (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre)

Bakoyannis defends record as mayor, pledges constructive opposition (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre)

Kasidiaris, in handcuffs, sworn in as Athens municipal councilor (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre)

Norwegian national stabs to death police officer in Thessaloniki (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre)

Greece’s Infections Committee recommends the Masks return (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre)

World population set to top eight billion by January 1 – Greece an ageing population (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre)

Swiss filmmaker documents the rise and fall of the iconic Greek kiosk (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre)

Four Management Secrets of Greek Orthodox Monks (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre)

The Acropolis Cat that Became a Landmark on Google Maps (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre)

Shops opening hours, metro & tram service until Jan 7 (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre)

Plan Ahead

“Break the Pomegranate” event in Kypseli, Athens, Dec 29-31 (S'ouvre dans une nouvelle fenêtre)

That’s all for this week; please forward this email to anyone you think might find it interesting and ask them to join our international community! 

May 2024 be a Happier, Brighter, and more Peaceful Year! 

The AL team